Middle East is a Mess but Boy Can They Sing

Israel Palestinian Panel

Outdoor Qawwali Concert

In my entire life I have never heard a more erudite person than Sheldon Pollock. He teaches at Harvard and his specialty is South Asia. He is the head of the Murty Library research team. We listened to him in awe as he spoke of Indian Classical Literature. Both the depth and breath of his learning and scholarship is unbelievable. The discussion that Professor was leading in the first session of the day was entitled: “Why a Library of Indian Classical Literature”. It became a showcase of his erudition about Indian Literature, Languages, Culture, methodology of research, etc. We were blown away as he talked in English, Sanskrit, Hindi and Persian.  I youtubed his name and here is a link to a lecture by him. Enjoy and be in awe. Lecture.

The second session of the day was entitled: The Twilight Zone: Between Arabs and Israelis. The Panel was fabulous: the former Indian Ambassador to Israel, the Indian who served as President of the UN Security Council, a Palestinian doctor who is a poet and lives in Texas, Gideon Levy a former member of the Israeli Government who writes for the liberal newspaper Haaretz. Gideon dominated the discussion. He is passionate about the need to end the settlements. The entire panel was ultimately extremely pessimistic about any chance of peace. A one state solution is impossible because the Arabs would outnumber the Jews and vote the state of Israel out of existence. A two state solution is the only possible solution but no Israel government will give up the settlements to make it happen. It is a tragic problem with no end in sight. The panel was unanimous in that  only America can force Israel to make the concessions required, yet they doubt America ever will really lean on Israel. The Palestinians are victims of victims. However, if a Palestinian kills an Israeli he is no longer a victim, and the reverse is true, if an Israeli kills a Palestinian he is no longer a victim. It comes down to 2 peoples both who think god gave them the same land. The session was depressing, troubling and enlightening.

The next session was on the new Prime Minister of India Modi. The essence of the panel was that the jury is still out on Modi. He has only been PM for 6 months. He hasn’t proposed a new budget yet (he will in late February). To free India’s potential he must repeal the crippling laws that are so burdensome and so arbitrary that it makes almost all businessmen criminals, as they need to bribe their way through the maze. Modi is an excellent communicator who has captivated the country (and the world), but now he is to use his political capital to make the major changes the country needs.

We then attended a panel called Meltdown in the Middle East. The experts agree the region is undergoing a major transformation. There was a lot of blame directed toward the US, England, France and Israel for meddling in the Middle East. Some felt the problems started in the 1800’s, it isn’t a recent phenomena. The Middle East problems in general seem as intractable as the Israeli problems in particular. It is strange how a panel like this can be so depressing yet so enjoyable to attend as you listen to views and opinions that you don't usually hear in America. What a mess the world is.

We attended one last panel on Cities and their Shadows, 4 authors who have written books about various cities. We found the panel tedious and left early. The day was a good day although the panels on the Middle East and Israel were both profoundly depressing.

The day ended however on a triumphant note. We went to an outdoor concert to hear a Sufi Qawwali concert featuring the group: Rizwan Muazzam Qawals from Pakistan. We have always loved Qawwali groups singing their praises of Allah. Here in India, which is at a virtual state of war with Pakistan we sat with thousands in the cold and listened in rapture to this fabulous Pakistani Qawalli group. They were fantastic. The audience, swayed, sang, clapped and danced to this religious music. I captured some of the concert with my iPhone and you watch a short clip here: Qawwali.

Tomorrow we check out of our Palace in Jaipur and drive to Delhi hoping to avoid major delays due to security for President Obama’s arrival and Indian Republic Day.